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Surely the beauty of a region has nothing to do with its wines – modest Burgundy proves that – but there’s no doubt that, looking at the terrain of Valtellina, you expect a wild, soaring wine. Nor are you disappointed. A grape worthy of the noblest vista, in the northernmost Nebbiolo DOCG it unexpectedly lets go its sharp young tannins and makes a wine softer and accessible earlier than the great cousins of the Piemonte. Three years in bottle mellows Prevostini’s Riserva into a sustainedly spectacular wine, with a wildly aromatic nose of roses, raspberries, cherries, citrus, and spice. Through slow, cool ripening, with high diurnal variation and rocky soils that radiate heat at night, the grapes develop a richness of fruit unexpected in young Nebbiolo, with dark cherry rounding into black raspberry and cedar, black pepper and clove spice filling in beneath, the whole finishing with a savory persistence.
Pairing: A truly strong but gentle wine, it pairs with the Alpine pheasant, roasted with chestnuts, or, if that is not to hand, truffled lamb or beef braised in wine.